A Break from Burgers
By Bobbi Mlynar (Contact)
Originally published 01:20 p.m., January 7, 2008
Updated 01:20 p.m., January 7, 2008
Coal-miners and kings have feasted on the little meat-and-vegetable pies for more than 500 years. Now, pasties are available in Emporia.
George Wells and wife Diane, known as Dee Dee, opened the U.P.’ers — pronounced “Yoopers” —Restaurant at 1015 Commercial St. on Dec. 21 and have been selling scores of the meat-and-vegetable pies since then.
George said that pasty — pronounced “pass-tee” — shops are popular in the Upper Peninsula area of Michigan, where Dee Dee was born and reared.
The restaurant is a natural evolution for Wells, who has been smoking briskets and ribs for years and long has wanted to become more involved in preparing food.
“We tried to do this a few years ago, but we couldn’t ever find a building,” he said.
When the former Wheat State Pizza building became available, they bought it.
He had worked at Modine Manufacturing until it closed and she has worked more than 30 years at the Hopkins plant. The pasty restaurant has been a long-time dream of the couple.
“We have one of the best recipes out of Iron Mountain, Mich.,” Wells said. “We changed it just a little bit just so it would be ours.”
The restaurant’s logo features a map of the Upper Peninsula as background for “U.P.’ers,” a name derived, with a different spelling, from a nickname given to people from that area: Yoopers.
The walls are decorated with tributes to U.P.’er humor — the Complaint Department features a mouse trap set with a small red ball and the words “Press the red button” and a bag of dried corn is labeled “chicken dinner.”
The attraction, though, is the pasty.
Pasties have a long history among miners from Cornwall, England; they’re referred to in at least two Shakespearean plays and are reputed to date back at least to the reign of King Henry VIII, according to a pasties history displayed at the restaurant.
“A miner could leave home with a pasty in each pocket and reach in once in a while to warm his hands,” the history states.
Because the ores from mines often contain traces of arsenic that lingered on the miners’ fingers, they held pasties by the crusts and tossed those remnants onto the mine floors.
“The miners believed in ghosts, so the crust was left in the mines for them,” the history states.
When miners from Cornwall came to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula to mine iron and copper, they brought their penchant for pasties with them.
The pasties here are made daily from scratch, George said, using ground chuck, potatoes and onions baked in a round mound of flaky pie crust.
“I don’t buy anything that’s made up,” he said.
The Wellses and their daughter, Wanda, begin the long process of preparing pasties and the other foods at about 7:30 a.m. each day and replenish their supply around 4:30 p.m. in time for the dinner crowd. The couple’s granddaughter, Kayla Wells, comes in part-time to help.
They’ve created an assembly line to make the dough, roll out the round disks and spoon on the mix of meat and vegetables. Those are covered with another pastry disk that is tucked into the bottom crust and crimped around the edges to seal them. They’re baked, never fried, to a deep golden brown and set in the heat box to be served.
“It’s all raw — raw meat, raw potatoes, raw onions,” Wanda Wells said, describing the pasties before they’re shuffled into the ovens to bake.
“The little pasty shops up north are more like a take-out,” Wells said. “You can take ‘em like a hamburger and just eat them.”
They can be eaten alone or dressed up with ketchup, ranch dressing, salsa or other favorite condiments .
U.P.’ers offers daily specials, in addition to pasties: hot beef on Mondays, chicken-fried steak on Tuesdays, lasagne on Wednesdays, pork chops on Thursdays, and smoked brisket and ribs on Fridays and Saturdays. Homemade soups, pies and cakes also are available daily, and the Wellses also cater and deliver.
The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 9 or 10 p.m. Mondays through Sundays, depending upon customers’ needs.
A grand opening is being planned and will be announced later.
Comments
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Posted by traceygraham (anonymous) on January 7, 2008 at 7:02 p.m. (Suggest removal)
What an ironic headline.
Four of us went in to try something new. I've wanted to try pasties since reading about them in a book some time back. Two of us planned to order the special, two would order the pasties, and we'd share. Nice plan.
After waiting for the tables to get cleared for 5 minutes or so, we bussed our own table. It was busy busy busy, so we thought we'd help out. Didn't realize we'd need to get our own food too.
We watched as three other tables got cleared, seated, orders taken and served. Other folks came in, ordered at the counter and left with paper bags full of food.
After 20 minutes of waving our hands as servers passed by without a glance in our direction, we finally managed to flag someone down to get our order.
Surprise surprise. All out of the special... All out of pasties... Only thing left to eat was burgers and dogs.
Posted by MelissaE (anonymous) on January 7, 2008 at 8:26 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I think this is a refreshing choice for eating out in Emporia. I've not been there yet, but hope to when I go home again.
That being said, I'm sorry that the first poster had a bad experience--but keep in mind that this is a brand new venture for this couple who dreamed about it for years (according to the article) so I'm sure they're learning a lot as the days pass.
I hope the first poster gives it one more chance. :) It's one of those rare businesses that Emporia needs but can't seem to get because it's not Wal-mart nor is it your run-of-the-mill fast food restaurant. Emporia needs this (and a hundred more like it).
Melissa
Posted by rmbcollege (anonymous) on January 7, 2008 at 10:51 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Tracey,
Give it time to slow down in business before going back. They will be really busy for a while. Give it another shot though. I am sure you will love it!
Posted by siamesefred (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 7:04 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Tracey is a longtime supporter of local businesses and downtown Emporia. I'm sure she'll be back. I just hope others aren't discouraged to try it.
Remember the lines at Amanda's when she first opened? And I know of a group who went to Amanda's right after the holidays. The line was so long it took at least a half-hour to order, then both soups ran out just as the group made it to the counter.
They'll be back, though.
In both cases, U.P.ers and Amanda's, I think the trick is to arrive early, if possible. Say by 11:30 for lunch rush.
Posted by traceygraham (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 7:35 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I have to say the pasties looked absolutely gorgeous (we got to see dozens of them go by in the 25 minutes we were waiting to order), and the aromas were wonderful. If I hadn't been hungry going in, just being in that environment would have made me that way.
I don't mind standing in line at Amanda's because at least when I get to place my order I get something truly delicious. And I don't have to watch a dozen people go ahead of me in line. And I don't get ignored.
I LOVE unusual foods, and really really want to see any new, especially locally-owned, restaurant succeed. And I still really want to try a pasty. I read about them years ago and have been curious ever since.
And I know the restaurant business is really really tough. I love to cook, and I cook great food, but I would never want to have to do it for a living. It's just way too much work, and even when you try to do everything right, often things beyond your control get in the way. I think of all the terrific restaurants that have come and gone in the 8 and a half years we've lived here. Believe me, I do want to see this place succeed.
But I'm not sure if I'll go back to U.P.ers. I know my husband swears that he will not, and the other couple we were with will not. Many of my other friends are vegetarians, and they won't want to join me there for lunch. If they had offered more than a mumbled apology - free drinks, or a promise of pasties ready for us the next time we come in, or half off on our order of burgers, or _something_ - it would have gone some way toward mending the hard feelings.
Posted by Absolute (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 8:37 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Tracey--Here is some advice for you. Head up I-35 until it ends. (this will take like 12 hours I think) Then keep going like 30 minutes or so until you see "Grand Superior Lodge" on your right. It is *right* on Lake superior and is breath takingly beautiful. The next morning, head to downtown Two Harbors, MN and they have a great cafe that serves pasties. They were great and the atmosphere is unbelievable. (and you won't get ignored!!) After you have a pasty, head to Gooseberry State Falls park for hiking and incredible views of Lake Superior.
Seriously, we did this over a long weekend and it was awesome! And I am sure you would be more satisfied then your trip to U.P.!
Posted by traceygraham (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 9:53 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Thanks for the suggestion Absolute. I've always wanted to take a vacation up that way. Haven't been able to talk my husband into it yet though. He always wants to go some place tropical for vacation. I keep trying to convince him the Great Lakes have beaches too, and even show him the photos in _Midwest Living_. If we timed it right we could stop in St Paul to see Prairie Home Companion (a lifetime dream of mine). My hub does enjoy hiking, so maybe your suggestion might be just the kick we need to do it!!! Thanks!
Posted by kc1985 (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 10:02 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I live in Duluth, MN which is the area you guys are talking about. I grew up in Emporia and moved here about 4 years ago. I love living here, and the summer months here are perfect, with the tempeture in the 70's everyday. I love going down to canal park, walking the board walk along lake superior, watching the lift bridge go up for shipping boats, and just going down to the beach. This is a great city to visit for tourists in the summer and would definitely recommend coming here for a vacation. You would love it.
Posted by JanF (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 10:39 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I am going to try this today. I am curious, after reading the comments, rmbcollege mentioned a place called Amanda's. Where is this place?
Posted by create (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 11:31 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Amanda's is in the old Kress Building, right in front. You'll love it. They have the best Tomato Basil soup you've ever tasted. They are courteous, and work as fast as they can for the lunch rush, but do go early if you can. Or go after lunch like I do. Their bread is wonderful and if there is an extra loaf or two after lunch, you can buy it to take home. It's worth going. And don't forget to note the aprons everyone wears. Amanda makes them herself. My favorite sandwich is the portabello panini.
BTW, Tracey, if hubby doesn't want to go, leave him at home. Corral a couple of girlfriends who can share driving and gas and go. Life is too short, girl.
Posted by traceygraham (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 11:58 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Thanks create. I'll think about that.
JanF: You will definitely love Amanda's. I agree with create that getting there early or late is best, if you have a flexible lunchtime schedule. I also agree that the TB soup is outstanding! The panini changes each month. The portabello is over now (boohoo), but it's Philly Cheese Steak in January and the reviews are all good. I've been eating my way through the menu and so far have not had a single bite I didn't love!
Posted by JanF (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 2:13 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Thank you for the info, I will definitely try to make it. I went to UP'ers today for lunch and it was very good. I will go back after I try Amanda's. Thanks again
Posted by admireed (anonymous) on January 8, 2008 at 4:39 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Longer wait than at the doctor's office?
Posted by create (anonymous) on January 9, 2008 at 12:02 p.m. (Suggest removal)
LOL admireed. No, not that long.
I went to UPers yesterday afternoon about 4:30 and bought two pasties as a take out. No waiting at all. Might be a good time to go.
She wrapped them loosely in wax paper so the crust wouldn't get soft in the steam, and then she put them in a brown paper bag. Heavy! Four bucks apiece and worth every penny!!! One is almost too much to eat. I forced myself. :) The other one is for lunch today; gonna sit down with it here in a few.
That bottom crust is wonderful, especially where parts have caramelized. Yum! Lunchtime!!!!!
Posted by slipandslide (anonymous) on January 9, 2008 at 10:46 p.m. (Suggest removal)
create, dont be so good at describing the food, its almost eleven oclock, the restaruant is closed and your description is so good i dont know if i can wait to get one!
Posted by create (anonymous) on January 10, 2008 at 7:57 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Sorry slip. :) I had half of that second pasty for lunch yesterday with a half bottle of beer. The other half bottle of beer got poured over a pot roast that I had just finished browning with garlic and onions. It simmered all afternoon until it was fork tender. Oh my goodness, pot roast in rich brown gravy, a green salad, and a hunk of warm french bread was supper. Now, I still have half that pasty for lunch today. Left over pot roast for supper. No cooking today!
Posted by Weltha (anonymous) on January 10, 2008 at 9:31 a.m. (Suggest removal)
whats your address create and what time should I be there??? LOL
Posted by create (anonymous) on January 10, 2008 at 11:27 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Weltha, I'll put you to work. :)
Posted by DJrocksthemic (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 8:21 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I got my first taste last night and it was great, and I went around 4:30 like you suggested Create, and I don't know if it was a bad time. Because even though I got my pastry quickly I didn't feel like I was being waited on, you hi welcome to Yoopers or how are you doing, instead I only got a forced hello and then they just waited for me to say something. I also don't know if the people in their were "regulars" but their was alot of yelling in the resturant, and part of me just wanted to leave. I'm glad I stayed though, because the pastry was awesome.
Posted by Weltha (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 11:10 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I don't mind working for supper create... ;)
Posted by mythoughts (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 11:26 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Pasty good. Pasty huge! Service slow. Servers grumpy! Get your food to go...and prepare to wait 15 minutes at least. They need some help on the staff end...so does Amanda's. Makes me sad, but at least they are THERE. Any chance for a new, downtown Italian place?
Posted by create (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 12:33 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Mythoughts: Oh man, if only I were younger, I would open an Italian place because I can cook really good Italian, you know, the kind where the pasta is truly al dente and you shave the really good Parmesano Reggiano or Romano cheese on top.
Yes, we need a good Italian place because even good Italian cooks like to go out to eat Italian. The salad. The breadsticks. Oh my widening hips!!!
DJrocks, I'm glad you got a taste and liked the pasty. You know, I honestly think they are good people, but this is their first time in business serving the public and they seem to be overwhelmed. Wouldn't you love to go in there and take a few minutes to show them how to smile real big, look folks in the eye and say, "Hi there, welcome to Yoopers, how about a pasty or six or seven?"
I think they're just real shy and overwhelmed right now. The product is quite fantastic. Let's hope they learn the service end of it too -- soon.
Posted by Joe_Strummer (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 1:16 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Grew up in Wisconsin, Spent a little time in the U.P. "Yoopers" were always considered a bit strange by non-"Yoopers." In a good way though. Haven't had a chance to eat at the new place yet, but it's nice to have places like this open in Emporia. You can keep your chains....i'll take a mom and pop restaurant any day.
Posted by spectator (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 2:26 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I finally had opportunity to go on Jan 10 at around 2:15 p.m. The place wasn't empty but we were waited on and received our orders in an appropriate amount of time. It was an excellent meal. We'll certainly go back. This place will be a monster hit when word spreads amd more people try it. Hooray for the pasty store and Amanda's.
Posted by blulitespecial (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 3:30 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I went in late afternoon Thursday and picked up 3 to go. Good stuff! 2 hours after I had one,I'd stop,rub my belly,and think"Man, that was good!" I'm about to warm up another.They were in between rushes Wednesday when I first stopped in.The lunch supply had run out,but they were friendly and said they were sorry,and more would be ready in about an hour.I told them that's OK,I'll try again soon.I went back Thursday abut 4pm-I even saw people I knew there both days.That's why the door is open- To SELL to customers! I think it's great they were selling all they could.So what if there's a little bit of a shakedown cruise to go through?If you've been in business,the first few days can be something else.This place IS on my regular rounds! Now - I need a good loaf of bread to go with that Kansas wine.... I can't stand it- I'm hungry just writing about them-a pasty is going in the microwave right now.
Posted by admireed (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 3:34 p.m. (Suggest removal)
bluelite you understand. Small place, busy at times, learn on the go, best effort, never please everyone, help them out when you can kind of eatery
Posted by slipandslide (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 3:56 p.m. (Suggest removal)
they went from manufacturing to restauranting so give them a chance to learn how to handle the rushes and the customer service we need more little mom and pop shops in town they are great
Posted by admireed (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 6:51 p.m. (Suggest removal)
with Colburn's going out, we need more local nice spots.
Posted by Hillbilly (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 7:32 p.m. (Suggest removal)
colburns is going out?? are the closing?? say it aint so, what ever will some do?????
Posted by admireed (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 9:25 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Bldg sold. Will be something other than a restaurant. What?
Posted by emporian (anonymous) on January 11, 2008 at 9:42 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Rumor has it Coburn's is gonna become an IHOP
Posted by Absolute (anonymous) on January 12, 2008 at 11:05 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I am really going to miss Coburns. I guess I will be eating at J's more often. It is just more of a drive for me.
Posted by dicetree (anonymous) on January 13, 2008 at 5:44 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I am a born and bred yooper currently living in Lenexa. I was told about the new restaurant by a co-worker who used to reside in Emporia. Tomorrow is my daughter's 25th birthday,
when she heard there was an authentic pasty place she insisted that was what she wanted for her birthday dinner. I can't wait to try them, a good pasty is worth a two hour drive!
Posted by lycomu (anonymous) on January 15, 2008 at 1:39 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Just had lunch at Coburns. Food was great, service was great..it would seem they are still in business and would probally appreicate it if folks would find out the facts before posting
Posted by mythoughts (anonymous) on January 15, 2008 at 3:50 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Well, I've heard from multiple sources about Coburn's, so somebody has spilled the beans. Ate at U.P'ers yesterday - everyone was in a good mood, service was fine - so glad to see them getting their feet under them. It's a hard business to just jump in to, and I wish them all the luck in the world. Now, if Amanda's would just install a pick-up window for call-ins...
Posted by dicetree (anonymous) on January 17, 2008 at 5:37 p.m. (Suggest removal)
MMMMMMMMMM good! Just like I remember them from growing up in th U.P. Didn't make it there in person like I planned, but my co-worker brought one to me at work today. It was absolutely fabulous!!!
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