November lawn care
Amy Jordan
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Just when you think lawn care is over for the season, important work is yet to be done. November is one of the most important times for lawn care, and a little extra work now will pay off next spring.
Remove leaves: Rake up and remove leaves from the lawn. If leaves remain on the lawn, they can form a mat that can cause the turf to weaken or die. If there is only a thin layer of leaves, they can be mowed and collected in a bagger to be put into a compost pile or applied to a garden and tilled in. A thicker layer of leaves could be raked up and used in a compost pile or garden as well. A tarp works well to move leaves; simply rake them onto the tarp, then drag them to where you want them.
Mow: Don’t skimp on the last mowing of the year. If you have a cool season grass like tall fescue, now is about the time to make that last mowing. It can be at the same height you mowed at through the season, which is 3 to 3 ? inches for tall fescue.
Fertilize: Tall fescue is the most common lawn grass in this area, and November is the time to give these lawns the last nitrogen application of the season. Why November? While top growth slows in response to cool temperatures, grass plants are still making food by photosynthesis. A November nitrogen application helps boost the rate of photosynthesis. Carbohydrates that are not used in growth are stored in the crown and other storage tissues in the plant. These carbohydrate reserves help the turfgrass green up earlier in the spring and sustain growth into May without the need for early-spring nitrogen.
Those early-spring nitrogen applications in March or April are less desirable because they can lead to excessive shoot growth and reduced root growth, which means you will be mowing more often and the turf may be more stressed going into summer. Other benefits of November-applied nitrogen for cool-season grasses include improved winter hardiness, root growth and shoot density.
How much should you apply? One to 1 1/2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft of lawn area is sufficient. In order for this application to be effective, the nitrogen must be readily available to the plant, because the growing season is nearly over. Therefore, for a November application use a quickly-available nitrogen carrier such as urea or ammonium sulfate.
Many turfgrass fertilizers sold in garden centers and other retail outlets also contain soluble nitrogen. Avoid products that contain slow-release nitrogen for this application. As always, sweep up any fertilizer that gets on driveways, sidewalks, or streets and reapply it to the lawn to avoid potential pollution of storm water.
Control Weeds: Early to mid-November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelion usually produces a flush of new plants in late September and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed have germinated. Henbit and chickweed are often overlooked in the fall but are very prominent in spring when they are harder to control.
These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions that you may have been battling all summer are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots. Herbicides will move to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up. Be sure to choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process. Weed Free Zone is a relatively new herbicide and contains the three active ingredients mentioned above plus a product called carfentrazone. It gives a quicker response than the other products mentioned and will work better when temperatures drop below 50 degrees.
Water: We have had adequate moisture most of this year, including this fall, but water during dry periods, especially new grass.
Proper timing of lawn maintenance makes a big difference, so get out there and work smarter, not harder.
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