Here comes asparagus
Amy Jordan, special to The Gazette
Originally published 01:43 p.m., February 28, 2008
Updated 01:43 p.m., February 28, 2008
Asparagus is one of the first vegetables of the season, which is one reason it is well liked by many.
After a long winter of canned and frozen produce, fresh vegetables are a treat. In addition to the enjoyment of eating asparagus, it is fairly easy to grow, requires little care, and will continue to produce tasty green spears for decades.
Asparagus is planted by purchasing 1-year-old “crowns” or roots from a garden dealer, seed supplier or nurseryman. It is possible to start asparagus from seed, but takes an additional year to produce a crown ready to be transplanted. It is better to purchase crowns rather than to start with seed. You can also start asparagus from seedling transplants set in early May. Transplants need to be 8 to 10 weeks old before transplanting.
Crowns should be set deeply in the soil. Dig a trench 8 to 9 inches deep and place the crowns at the bottom. Space crowns about 18 to 24 inches apart in the trench. Rows should be 4 to 5 feet apart, but one row generally suffices. Initially cover the crowns with 2 to 3 inches of soil and
Firm the soil well around the crowns. Do not fill in the entire trench at once. Gradually add soil to fill the trench as the plant grows; that covers small weeds and they die for lack of light. By the end of the first season, the trench is completely filled in. Crowns should be planted in Kansas March 15 to April 15.
The list of commonly available varieties has significantly changed in recent years. The University of Illinois Extension reports that standard varieties like Mary Washington, Martha Washington and Waltham Washington are still being offered; but a number of new varieties that are either predominantly or all male recently have been introduced in to common usage. Asparagus plants are naturally either male or female. The female plants bear seeds, which take considerable energy from the plant and sprout new seedlings, which cause overcrowding in the bed. Male plants produce thicker, larger spears because they put no energy into seeds and have no weedy seedling problem. A line that produces only male plants was discovered and has been incorporated into some truly amazing varieties. Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Prince, Syn 53, Syn 4-362, UC 157 and Viking KBC are new hybrids with larger yields. It is advisable to plant the best variety available, as an asparagus bed should remain productive for at least 15 to 20 years. If you are starting a new bed, you may never get to choose a variety again if your bed produces that long. All the newer varieties are cold tolerant and are resistant to rust and fusarium.
Botanically, asparagus is a member of the lily family, closely related to onions and leeks, though it bears no resemblance to them in appearance or flavor. It is a finicky plant, harvested by hand and requiring much attention during the brief growing season. Left to mature it will sprout into beautiful feathery ferns that are often used in floral arrangements.
While Europeans prize white asparagus, Americans tend to prefer the green or violet-green varieties. When buying asparagus look for compact tips and smooth green stems that are uniform in color down the length of the stem. Check the cut stem end for any signs of drying and always avoid withered spears.
Pencil thin or thick stems can be equally delicious. Contrary to popular belief, thinner stems are not an indication of tenderness. Thick stems are already thick when they poke their heads out of the soil and thin stems do not get thicker with age. Tenderness is related to maturity and freshness.
Asparagus comes in a variety of colors including white, violet-green, pink and purple. If you must store any variety of asparagus, treat it as you would treat a cut flower. Trim the stems and stand them in a glass with one to two inches of water. Cover with a plastic bag and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or until ready to use.