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Soups & stews to savor

Wednesday, January 3, 2007

It’s chilly out there. And my freezer is full of bits and pieces of the holiday meals.

A turkey carcass here, extra mashed potatoes there and you’ve got the makings for a hot, one pot meal!

Speaking of those mashed potatoes, they make a really nice crust on stew (a la Shepherd’s Pie). Whip up a beef or chicken stew and float those taters on top. Brown it in the oven a little bit before you serve it with some hot rolls. The potatoes will add heft to the dish (or extend a small quantity of stew) and help hold in the heat. Sprinkle with shredded cheddar cheese if you like.

This is a brightly colored soup with a light taste. Serve with some warm Swiss cheese toast. If you can’t find leeks, use a mild white onion, or the white parts of green onions.

YELLOW PEPPER SOUP

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 large yellow peppers

2 large leeks

1 garlic clove, minced

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1/4 tsp. ground turmeric

3 sprigs fresh parsley

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

2 medium russet potatoes

4 cups water

1 Tbsp. dry white vermouth (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

Stem and seed the yellow peppers, breaking them into chunks. Chop up the onion; if you use leeks, cut them in half long-wise first and rinse them really well. Peel and dice the potatoes.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the peppers, leeks, garlic, salt and turmeric, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften (about 10 minutes).

Tie the parsley, thyme, and bay leaf together with kitchen twine. Put the potatoes, water, and herb bundle in a stew pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, about 20 minutes.

Discard the herb bundle. Puree the soup in small batches in a blender (keep the lid cracked to allow steam to escape), or in the pot with an immersion blender, until smooth. Return to the pot and reheat. Stir in the vermouth, and season, to taste, with salt and pepper. Serve warm in bowls or mugs; it’s very sippable!

Here’ s a spicy dish. Spicy foods can help with a lot of things, like clearing your head, squashing a tummy flu, or just breaking you out of a “bland food” rut. You can substitute a habanero for the Scotch bonnet pepper. If you’ll just prick it with a fork then you can fish it out later, or, if you’re like my Andy, you can really test yourself by seeding and dicing it.

CARIBBEAN PEPPER POT WITH CHICKEN AND SHRIMP

1 Tbsp. vegetable or olive oil

4 chicken thighs, skinless

1 1/2 tsp. salt

Black pepper

1 medium onion, sliced

3 cloves garlic, smashed

1 tsp. allspice

1/2 cup tomatoes, chopped

4 cups chicken broth

1/2 lb. bunch kale, stemmed, chopped

1 lb. sweet potatoes, sliced into 3/4-inch half-moons

4 oz. okra, chopped

2 bay leaves

1 Scotch bonnet pepper

1/2 tsp. dried thyme

1/3 cup light coconut milk

8 oz. medium shrimp, peeled

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Pat the chicken dry, and season with some pepper. Add the chicken, smooth side down, to the pan and cook until brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

Add the onion and garlic to the pot, and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the allspice and tomatoes and cook until the juices are almost evaporated. Add the chicken broth, kale, sweet potatoes, okra, bay leaves, the 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, Scotch bonnet, and thyme. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer.

Cook, uncovered, until the chicken is cooked through and the sweet potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes.

Stir in the coconut milk and shrimp; simmer until the shrimp turn pale pink, about 2 minutes. Remove the pepper if you left it whole. Ladle the stew into warm bowls and serve with some heavy bread, like a pumpernickel.

I love this next stew. It has a North African flavor, and when served with couscous it’s a very hearty meal. You could also do rice or mashed potatoes.

SEVEN VEGETABLE COUSCOUS

3 cloves garlic, smashed

2 small turnips, peeled and quartered

1 medium yellow onion, quartered

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks

1/2 fennel bulb, thickly sliced lengthwise

1/3 cup golden raisins

1 Tbsp. fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1 Tbsp. salt

2 Tsp. each cumin, paprika, and sugar

1 1/2 Tsp. turmeric

1/8 Tsp. cloves, ground

1 cinnamon stick, snapped in half

2 cups water

1 lb. butternut squash

1 small zucchini, cut into 2-inch rounds

1 (15.5 oz.) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

4 sprigs fresh parsley, chiffonade

1 cup canned whole peeled tomatoes, with their juices

Couscous:

2 cups cold water

1 Tbsp. butter

1 tsp. salt

1 1/2 cups uncooked couscous

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Put the first 15 ingredients in a large soup pot with a tight-fitting lid. Add 2 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat; cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are somewhat soft, about 10 minutes.

Halve and seed the butternut squash and cut it into wedges. Add squash, zucchini, chickpeas, and parsley to the pot. Using your fingers and working over the pot, tear the tomatoes into big pieces and add them to the pot along with their juices (you could chop the tomatoes, but this is more fun).

Simmer the stew, covered, until it is slightly thick and fragrant, and the vegetables are fork tender but not mushy, about 15 minutes. Remove the cinnamon sticks.

For the couscous: bring water to a boil with the butter and salt in a small saucepan. Stir in the couscous and almonds, pull the saucepan off the heat, cover, and set aside until the water has been absorbed and the couscous is plump, about 5 minutes.

To serve, fluff the couscous with a fork and spread it over a large serving platter. Use a slotted spoon to mound the vegetables in the center. Pour a little of the broth over the vegetables and serve family style with a big spoon.

If you have an African-style hot sauce like Brother Bru Bru’s (salt free) or harissa (hot chile/garlic paste), pass it around the table. Save the remaining broth for stock in other dishes. A very tasty dish!

Next week it’s homemade pizza time. The current challenge is something I really like but have never made: Sour Cream Cakes. White, chocolate or marbled: Do you have a great recipe to share? The address is 517 Merchant, or e-mail murphysmenu@yahoo.com. I look forward to hearing from you!

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